New Zealand- Picture Perfection

After traveling through Thailand, Laos, Vietnam and Cambodia, we really were not sure what to expect from New Zealand apart from a good dose of normality and English!

Our first stop was the famously earthquake hit Christchurch, although it has been a good two years since the ferocious quake, this city amongst all its beauty is still sadly in ruins. This did not retract from the luscious green parks and botanical gardens, the quirky reconstructed shopping areas all bordered by hills and the Pacific Ocean.

From here we began our months journey anti-clockwise around the South Island stopping briefly through Hamner Springs famous for their natural hot water springs, Kaikura for a quick spot of whale watching and then stopping in what is known as the sunniest city in the South Island…Nelson and it certainly lived up to its name allowing us to go cycling along its pier and beaches, walking through Abel Tasman National Park but most spectacularly was the drive to the pretty port town of Picton the gateway to the marine, forest and island attractions of the Marlborough Sounds.

Our forever crush on Cambodia

As soon as we landed in Siem Riep, Ste and I knew that we would have a forever crush on Cambodia! A surprisingly different landscape to Vietnam considering just how close they are.

Our first stop was at the breathtaking Angkor Watt. There is only one way to describe it…Gigantic! The structure goes on an on, turn after turn, step after step…a forever enchanting fortress of worship and prayer! No matter where you looked, tiny little details, etchings, carvings, drawings and paintings donned the never ending walls.

From Siem Riep, we travelled to the capital Phnom Pen, sadly a much filthier and possibly more impoverished town than Siem Riep. One minute you’re standing outside the grand gold palace, or eating an ice cream from the air conditioned Dairy Queen, the next minute you’re walking through garbage, dead rats and and trying not to step on people sitting or sleeping on the pavement. But if there is a place which will really plant your feet firmly on the ground in Phnom Pen is the killing Fields! Filled with such sadness, a literal shot of reality at just how cruel and sick some people are and how far they will go to gain power!

But with a country full of kind, hard working people who have managed to stand back up after so many harsh knock downs, Cambodia is a country filled with promise and growth.

Where next????? New Zealand!!

Vietnam – Nha Trang and Ho Chi Min

Time for some fun in the sun and finally for Stephen to try his hand at surfing! The Surf Shack tucked away at the end of a dirt road, run by an American called Tipi, gave Him his first lesson in surfing the waves, and boy were there some waves! Three hours of standing, falling, splashing and wiping sea spray from his face, Ste waded out of the surf red eyed and with a huge smile on his face, not realising that his body would ache for the next three days but the surf bug was now securely planted.

Day two saw us hit the Vinpearl water and amusement park. Located on a secluded island off Nha Thrang, visitors had to take what is said to be the longest cable car in the world across to the island where we spun upside down, jumped on trampolines, took an alpine slide down the mountain, swung side to side on a pirate ship and flung ourselves down water slides called Tsunami and space hole! Adults were smiling more than the kids!

Finally, the one remaining stop we had left was Ho Chi Min and we loved it! Although another bustling city, it was more spacious, more modern, cleaner and with more meaningful history for some! Apart from a better night life and greater selection of restaurants which may I add was never a problem in Vietnam, as wherever we ate was one delicious meal after another, we were also struck by the realism of what was The Vietnam War!

A visit to the war museum brought to reality the true devastation that the war brought not just to Vietnam, but to Cambodia, Laos and all those involved! Not only was there catastrophic damage to the people and countries at the time but also the lasting affects it has had on those who were not even born yet!

So at the end of it all, although the north and south of Vietnam were so truly different, there was one thing that every village, town and city had in common…all the women, no matter what they were doing, wore pajamas night and day!!

Vietnam – Hue and Hoi An

Our first stop moving south from Ninh Bihn was Hue, a much more sunnier, modern and western city. Fewer locals bugged you to buy goods, take tuk tuks rides or be cycled around. larger stores with more westernised goods lined the streets and one could sense that there was just more money there. Hue, like Malta and Chiang Mai in Thailand has an old city called the Citadel. The Citadel is surrounded by old brick walls, encapsulating the grand palace where the emperor of Vietnam used to reside with his family and host birthday celebrations, as well as inaugurations and make important military and strategy decisions for the country.

We also took a moped tour around local pagodas seven stories high, local Buddhist and catholic shrines where we also learnt that Buddhism and Catholicism is 50:50 in Vietnam, as well as Vietnam War USA military shooting and lookout points along the perfume river.

From Hue, we moved onto Hoi An, a quaint town, where the its life is centered around its artisan market and restaurants. Every shop supplied its guests with beautiful hand made pashminas, jewelry, woodwork, tailor-made clothing from shirts, ball gowns and shoes to belts, bags and hats. Brightly colored paper lanterns decorated the river, bridge and walkways and even the rain couldn’t keep people away.

After the last few weeks of culture Ste an I decided to head further south for a a few days of sun, sea and surf…Nha Trang!

Vietnam – Sapa and Ninh Binh

After Halong Bay, Ste and I moved even further north up into the mountains of Sapa! A more secluded part of Vietnam where all the locals still dress in their traditional tribal costumes of indigo hand woven cloth and large silver hooped earrings, necklaces and bracelets. The land is literally covered in indigo paddies and rice paddies dotted with local dwellings. One day we embarked on a 13km trek in a group through one of the local villages and bamboo jungle. From the offset a group of tribes women glued themselves to us and waked with us the entire way asking our names, where we where from, helping us a long the slippery narrow paths of the jungle. All seemed friendly and fun until we got to the end and they all produced hand made goods for us to buy and when any of the group refused or didn’t give them what they thought to be enough tip, they got in a bad mood or said they would follow us back to our hotels so we can give more money!!!!

The final destination in the north was a very unassuming city where very few tourists visit called Ninh Binh, also described as the Halong Bay of the rice paddy fields, this description fits it to a tee! Just five minutes out from the city by moped you reach an area called Tam Coc, where again women in bamboo boats row tourists through the river using their feet! Either side of the river are rice paddies shadowed by gargantuan cliffs just like those of Halong Bay dwarfing the farmers tending to their crops below.

Vietnam – Hanoi and Halong Bay

During our three weeks in Vietnam, the one thing that really sticks out, is just how different the north is from the south…they may as well be separate countries, from the people, the weather, the clothing, the landscape and the tourists!

Our journey in the north started in the hustle and bustle of Hanoi where walking in the street was more dangerous then juggling fire and knives! We watched the famous water puppet show, visited the local markets which were obviously not often frequented by foreigners by the strange looks we were given and walked around the Japanese Literacy Temples where the education began in Vietnam!

From Hanoi we travelled a little further east to the breath taking Halong Bay (Land of the Descending Dragon) for a one day and night cruise on a traditional Vietnamese cruise ship. The cruise took us to the surrounding floating villages where women rowed us in their bamboo boats showing off their pearl fishing farms, then to Ti Top Mountain which involved climbing three or four hundred steps to take in the view, squid fishing at night off the back of our ship and finally to what is called the Surprising Cave, full of chambers one bigger than the other filled with stalagmites and stalactites in the shapes of animals and humans (if your imagination was up to it).

Laid back Laos

Luang Prabang, Vang Vieng and Vientiane three completely different towns with one thing in common…everything is done in their own time! From meals coming over an hour after you order them, with the end dish also being wrong, not being told that your hotel was being fumigated for Mosquitos so you think your hotel is on fire when smoke comes into your room, to your minivan transfer pickup being an hour and half later then you were told. But amongst all this, it is still a country filled with history, beauty, adventure and culture.

We pedal biked through the streets of Luang Prabang which lead to small villages where monks dressed in bright orange clothing painted white picket fences and man-made bamboo bridges allowing access to either side of the river, a moped ride took us out of the town to the most idyllic waterfall Kuang Si Falls you could ever imagine. A scenic trip up the Mekong to a Buddhist cave via a river boat to tubing down the Mekong river in large rubber rings with a beer in one in hand and the grand cliffs we trekked up earlier in the day behind us in Vang Vieng will never be forgotten!

One specific moment during our time in Laos, which will remain with us forever was in Vientiane. We visited COPE (Cooperative Orthotic and Prosthetic Enterprise), a local organisation who work with the National Rehabilitation Center, Lao Ministry of Health and five provincial rehabilitatoin centres in an innovative partnership developing rehabilitation services across Lao PDR. We learnt about the horrific Unexploded ordinance problem created by the Vietnam War and the work undertaken by COPE to provide disability services for people affected till this very day by UXOs.

What comes after laid back Laos? The Bananas in Pyjamas of Vietnam!!!

A Piece of Pai

A long and winding journey took us up high into the mountains of Pai, a small quaint town full of history, colours and culture! The local women dress in traditional clothing mirroring the colours of the rainbow, backpackers sit on the street stalls sipping on mango lassi and munching down on Phad Thai noodles! The mountainous landscape is a total contrast to the flat surroundings of Chiang Mai.

Our days saw us visiting the World War II Memorial bridge, China Town, trekking across Pai Canyon and scaling up another beautiful waterfall! Every night we saw the streets transformed into a night market with heavenly delights to eat and a plethora of hand made crafts. In addition to all this, I finally ended the saga of the foot and had my stitches removed woohoo!

Chop chop Chiang Mai

Most definitely, one of our favorite places in Thailand and to Stephens delight a cooler place for him not to bake! Chiang Mai, is traditional and not, touristy and not, quiet and relaxing yet busy and adventurous. There was sooo much to do and such little time.

We began our Chiang Mai love affair with a visit to a huge flower parade which happened to be on that weekend we arrived. Enormous floats like those we see in the streets of Valletta during carnival, were driven through the narrow streets lined on both sides with food, drink and flower stalls.

Day two was a ride up into the mountains to visit The Maesa Elephant Camp. The elephants and their trainers put on a little show of football, painting (yes painting) and wow can they paint, dart throwing at balloons and other such clever skills. We rode on the back of a huge 25 year old elephant through the jungled surroundings and then caught “bath time” where their human counterparts happily scrubbed their bellies, ears and trunks!

Day three, cooking time!!! Our half day cooking course with The Siam Rice Cookery school commenced with a short tour around a local food market. We were shown unique Thai produce that we had never seen before, then whisked a short distance out of the city to the cooking school, where we had to choose one soup, one noodle dish, one curry with which we had to make our own curry paste. Our teacher whose name was ‘Sim’ as he explained “Sim, like sim card” guided us all through each dish, step by step and the best bit was that we got to eat it all accompanied by a cold Chang beer and steaming hot rice…Ding Dong!

Day four…Flying Squirrels is the best way to describe it…zip lining, cargo net climbing, abseiling, skateboarding and pedal biking across narrow wooden planks of the Chiang Mai Forrest treetops. This is one of those much needed adrenaline seeking moments!

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